Treshnish hills and fields are back to their usual winter plumage - a range of reds, browns and oranges, with faded greens and pale dying grassy threads. There is still ice everywhere, snow in tiny sheltered places where the sun cannot reach. It is very cold, and the road from Ensay to Kilninian is still impassable. (Impassable, or should I say impossible, roads on the Isle of Mull have been making the news this week.)